The same could be done of the DA sanders and sandpaper we use, that would give quick guidance for the less experienced on which stuff to get and see if they can use it with good results. Maybe we should simply start posting pictures of the compounds we use with their matching pads, RPM's of the buffers, etc. What am I doing different now than 10 years ago? I really can't put my finger on it, I just know it has taken many hours of practicing and things up one way or another to get good at it, and I must say reading this forum and getting good info in here has helped a lot as well. I remember maybe 10 years ago trying DA sanding and almost always ending up in pigtail city, now a days I can reasonably stick to DA sanding and use Eagle Abrasives and some 3M trizact that I can get a good finish out of all the SPI clears with minimal pig tails, the random one that shows up I know how to fix without chasing my tail and without leaving a trace that it was there in the first place. When you sand an area, you have to do crisscross sanding and follow the body line. I guess where it gets tricky is that everyone sprays different and in different spraying conditions that even using the exact same clear coats both painters may end up with different hardness or degree of curing that what works for one person does not work for the other. There's some proven sandpaper brands and specific items within those brands that will work great most of the times. I wholeheartedly agree on your idea, because there is a set of "standard" known procedures that if followed judiciously will net consistently good results. This listing includes patent applications that are pending as well as patents that have already been granted by the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO). When it comes to buffing, I'm afraid there's no short and sweet answer that will satisfy all different painters, even when using the exact same clearcoat year round. Jason Killmer has filed for patents to protect the following inventions.
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